Your fleet running reports

[scotta]

The one i borrowed was slightly differt to the halfords design. You hook it on the the towbar so it takes the weight then you clamp it down with the handle. it then grips the tow ball so it doesn't move. Its witchcraft. I was looking at it going No fuck off thats never going to work. But yeah. Rock solid. didn't move a bit.

X5 thought it had a trailer attached however so disabled the freewheel in eco mode.

[integrale_evo]

Thank you. Does sound a bit like witchcraft, but now understand Dave’s degreasing comment

[V8Granite]

Thank you. Does sound a bit like witchcraft, but now understand Dave’s degreasing comment

I know what you mean, I understand the physics, have used it multiple times and it’s been rock solid but still don’t quite believe it and check it more than I should!

Suction cups though, they can sod off.

Dave!

[Jobbo]

How do they actually work? I mean, the tow bar is a ball, so how do the carriers not pivot and swing about?

The Thule 3-bike one which my mate attached to his classic Range Rover tow bar just mounts to the ball - no other bracing. There's a big grubscrew effectively to tighten it to the ball. Balls seem to be slightly flat-sided just round the middle which must be standard I guess; the grubscrew bit goes onto that.

Never had a problem with it moving around when we've been out; I've been in the car for many miles with it on the back.

[scotta]

I was taking the "Outlet" to mean the exhaust side. Not sure though.

Take them both out, swap them over, see if the error moves to the inlet ?

Did this. Error followed from outlet to inlet. Ordered a pair from your link.

@Sundayjumper New VANOS solenoid units arrived. Fitted new one to the inlet. Cleared all the errors and took it a drive. No errors have come back.

[Sundayjumper]

Excellent My original plan was just to use the cheapie ones for fault-finding and buy genuine once I knew it was worth it, but 2+ years later they’re still working fine and I really don’t see any point now !

[Simon]

Got the Yeti back from having a new mechatronic fitted. Seems like it also had the wrong gearbox oil in it (red ATF) and had sealant applied around the old one (typical of having been removed before). Seems likely that the last owner was in there before, possibly with a refurb mech before we had it.

I had the old mechatronic back from the garage too, so I can punt it on the bay and make back a few quid.

[scotta]

Excellent My original plan was just to use the cheapie ones for fault-finding and buy genuine once I knew it was worth it, but 2+ years later they’re still working fine and I really don’t see any point now !

I still have one genuine one in there. Think there’s only one that was faulty. See how this goes cos I wasn’t fancying the bill for a cam chain replacement.

Going to have to get the subframe bushes done though I think. Started knocking. Arse of a job from what I’ve seen. Subframe off and bushes off with a puller then pressed back in.

[Sundayjumper]

Going to have to get the subframe bushes done though I think. Started knocking. Arse of a job from what I’ve seen. Subframe off and bushes off with a puller then pressed back in.

I replaced the engine mounts because of a knocking, I thought it had helped but there's still something going on. I was assuming wishbones. I hadn't heard of the subframe bushes being a problem but I guess I'd better take a look. Another job on the list. Have you got a link to a decent write-up ?

[DeskJockey]

Going to have to get the subframe bushes done though I think. Started knocking. Arse of a job from what I’ve seen. Subframe off and bushes off with a puller then pressed back in.

I replaced the engine mounts because of a knocking, I thought it had helped but there's still something going on. I was assuming wishbones. I hadn't heard of the subframe bushes being a problem but I guess I'd better take a look. Another job on the list. Have you got a link to a decent write-up ?

I'll give you the bake off technical challenge version of the guide: drop subframe, replace bushes, reassemble. Make sure not to end up with leftover nuts/bolts/screws/washers/clips.

[Sundayjumper]

Going to have to get the subframe bushes done though I think. Started knocking. Arse of a job from what I’ve seen. Subframe off and bushes off with a puller then pressed back in.

I replaced the engine mounts because of a knocking, I thought it had helped but there's still something going on. I was assuming wishbones. I hadn't heard of the subframe bushes being a problem but I guess I'd better take a look. Another job on the list. Have you got a link to a decent write-up ?

Looks like we were talking about the same thing Mainly the rearmost bush where the wishbone is connected to the subframe, and you have to drop the subframe to replace it.

[Sundayjumper]

I'll give you the bake off technical challenge version of the guide: drop subframe, replace bushes, reassemble.

They pinched that from Haynes.

[GG.]

Range Rover is currently in for its service...

Mostly OK but it has a leaking turbo actuator... price for a replacement (inc. labour) is £1,000. I had to prompt them that I had a warranty on the car and isn't it covered (not great that they didn't check)?

So anyway, four days go by and impossible to get them to respond. Four requests for a call back went unheeded yesterday

Finally got a response today... that the warranty company had declined the repair as the Land Rover parts are "not fit for purpose" So they had to go back to JLR to get them to foot the cost (which they've agreed to do) as the warranty booklet clearly says "turbo, turbo actuator" as covered parts.

Anyway, I may get my car back by the weekend - let's see. I guess the warranty has paid for itself (kind of).

[IanF]

Range Rover is currently in for its service...

Mostly OK but it has a leaking turbo actuator... price for a replacement (inc. labour) is £1,000. I had to prompt them that I had a warranty on the car and isn't it covered (not great that they didn't check)?

So anyway, four days go by and impossible to get them to respond. Four requests for a call back went unheeded yesterday

Finally got a response today... that the warranty company had declined the repair as the Land Rover parts are "not fit for purpose" So they had to go back to JLR to get them to foot the cost (which they've agreed to do) as the warranty booklet clearly says "turbo, turbo actuator" as covered parts.

Anyway, I may get my car back by the weekend - let's see. I guess the warranty has paid for itself (kind of).

Good result (for you!)..

[DeskJockey]

@GG. how does that work? Is the warranty "3rd line" backed off to JLR because it is through the dealer?

[Sundayjumper]

I'm amused by the warranty company being perfectly happy to sell a warranty on a Land Rover, then refusing to honour it because Land Rovers aren't fit for purpose. Like they didn't already know that when they issued the policy.

[DeskJockey]

Quite. Seems a bit iffy.

[GG.]

Ha yes, well quite. I don't know what the fine print says as I haven't bothered to look but usually the warranty does exclude anything which they consider 'manufacturing defects'. How easy that is to flip back on the manufacturer probably varies, however, in this case the warranty itself is clearly marketed by Land Rover and JLR state in the summary that that part is covered - ergo, they are in a pretty sticky place for misrepresentation if they argue its not actually covered because of an exclusion in the underlying policy.

Anyway - does make you worry about what else could go wrong and could slip through the cracks if it wasn't so obviously noted as covered in their own summary.

I don't think I'm going to get to the levels of Doug De Muro with the Carmax warranty on his L322 though. I think he had about £20k worth of work done to it

[scotta]

Going to have to get the subframe bushes done though I think. Started knocking. Arse of a job from what I’ve seen. Subframe off and bushes off with a puller then pressed back in.

I replaced the engine mounts because of a knocking, I thought it had helped but there's still something going on. I was assuming wishbones. I hadn't heard of the subframe bushes being a problem but I guess I'd better take a look. Another job on the list. Have you got a link to a decent write-up ?

Looks like we were talking about the same thing Mainly the rearmost bush where the wishbone is connected to the subframe, and you have to drop the subframe to replace it.

Yep - Those ones. Stupid design. Bolts are on the top of the subframe.

[Sundayjumper]

I'm sure it'll become apparent once I get started but I don't feel totally convinced that the subframe needs to be *completely* removed from the car. I will have no problem admitting I'm wrong if it is the case. I'll still moan about it a lot though.

Have you had a quote for someone else to do it ? I'll do it myself of course but it'd be a good indication of the labour involved.

I just need a few days of guaranteed not-raining, and ideally when wifey doesn't need to use the car. Not that I don't trust her with any of the others. Ahem.