OV9

Does it need much in the way of repairs or is it mainly just strip, prep and paint?

integrale_evo wrote: ↑Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:25 pm Does it need much in the way of repairs or is it mainly just strip, prep and paint?

There is a bit that needs chopping out below the tail light, a repair, just panel beating, on the rear arch, the other rear arch has a small patch of bubbling on the leading edge and both front wings are starting to bubble on the leading edge too. They said they have to make new repair panels to give a guarantee on their work which I’m happy with. I’ve spoken to 4 shops now and none will guarantee anything coming back.

Wings are 800 plus VAT each and would still need the indicator holes welding up.

It will be back to bare metal, inside the door shuts, all seals and parts removed, bumpers, boot lid and bonnet off.

It’s a scary number but it’s the only body shop that has given me any confidence and the first one happy to let me poke around cars they have painted and shown how they do it.

First stone chip, I’ll be a broken man

Dave!

That’s the car dropped off at the dealer to get this final wheel nut off. Main dealers are lovely aren’t they? Even asking if I mind if they wash and hoover the car for me.

Remind me of this post when I get the bill later.

Merc serviced yesterday - just an oil change basically (an A service) for which the main dealer wanted £500 or so; the specialist charged me £190 plus about £4 for a new battery for the key. On top of that I had the gearbox oil changed (which is part of the service schedule for Mercs, unlike BMW et al). It feels nice and smooth now anyway, and more responsive when I press the accelerator gently; probably down to gearbox adaptions being reset more than anything else.

Not really aligned with the thread title, but - really nice product for those lucky enough to have fancypants garage door openers (or electric gates) powered by electrickery.

You don’t always want to carry a remote fob on your car keyring, and this is much neater than keeping a fob to rattle about in a door bin / centre cubby etc inside the car.

Doesn’t use the 12V supply but sits in the aperture. Looks very neat and doesn’t rattle about.

mik wrote: ↑Wed Sep 16, 2020 10:24 am Not really aligned with the thread title, but - really nice product for those lucky enough to have fancypants garage door openers (or electric gates) powered by electrickery.

You don’t always want to carry a remote fob on your car keyring, and this is much neater than keeping a fob to rattle about in a door bin / centre cubby etc inside the car.

Doesn’t use the 12V supply but sits in the aperture. Looks very neat and doesn’t rattle about.

Are you saying that you keep your "deactivate automatic defence system" control in your car? Isn't that a breach of security protocols? If you were poorer, Q could put the switch where one of the pauper blanks sits.

I personally (sadly) do not have electrickery powered gates/garage doors but my parents do. Any chance of sending the link?

My dad's 997.1 back in 2006 had a snazzy 'homelink' device which basically incorporated this into the cluster by the map light and everyone knows you feel like a fighter pilot when you get to press buttons on the roof to operate things Sadly mine didn't have this option ticked

Jimmy Choo wrote: ↑Wed Sep 16, 2020 10:40 am Are you saying that you keep your "deactivate automatic defence system" control in your car? Isn't that a breach of security protocols? If you were poorer, Q could put the switch where one of the pauper blanks sits.

Good point but I think if someone stole your car they'd actually be more likely to be looking for a typical key fob so this could actually be a clever misdirection... unless they've seen this thread of course

GG. wrote: ↑Wed Sep 16, 2020 10:41 am everyone knows you feel like a fighter pilot when you get to press buttons on the roof to operate things

I have the rear blind and the parking sensor buttons there in the jag. It makes me feel like Michael Knight taking a call from Devon when I press them.

GG. wrote: ↑Wed Sep 16, 2020 10:41 am I personally (sadly) do not have electrickery powered gates/garage doors but my parents do. Any chance of sending the link?

My dad's 997.1 back in 2006 had a snazzy 'homelink' device which basically incorporated this into the cluster by the map light and everyone knows you feel like a fighter pilot when you get to press buttons on the roof to operate things Sadly mine didn't have this option ticked

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hormann-HSZ1 ... 4565787329

Ordered at 4pm yesterday and it arrived this morning. Took just 30s to programme it too.

The Evora has HomeLink with the buttons up by the interior light, and whilst it was a PITA to get it working (long story) it is the coolest of the cool ( + )

GG. wrote: ↑Wed Sep 16, 2020 10:48 am

Jimmy Choo wrote: ↑Wed Sep 16, 2020 10:40 am Are you saying that you keep your "deactivate automatic defence system" control in your car? Isn't that a breach of security protocols? If you were poorer, Q could put the switch where one of the pauper blanks sits.

Good point but I think if someone stole your car they'd actually be more likely to be looking for a typical key fob so this could actually be a clever misdirection... unless they've seen this thread of course

They’re a security gimmick anyway, whenever the electrician comes round my dads place he lets himself in as he as a few master fobs which open anything. Wouldn’t put it past organised criminals to all have a set. Keeps the chavs out though.

The Open Sesamkey?

mik wrote: ↑Wed Sep 16, 2020 12:00 pmThe Open Sesamkey?

Nut is sorted, bill is £118 which will be getting passed back to the dealer along with the other one for the various bits I had to use to get the other bolts off and they've also done a free health check on the car which is exactly what I was going to get my mechanic to do so that's good.

Sounds like its all consumable/wear & tear bits needing done which is what I expected. I'll have a look at the report, see what price they quote for it all and take it from there. I'd quite like to just do brakes myself for example.... Will see how it looks. I guess labour will be the killer with OPC.

V8Granite wrote: ↑Tue Sep 15, 2020 7:34 am

integrale_evo wrote: ↑Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:25 pm Does it need much in the way of repairs or is it mainly just strip, prep and paint?

There is a bit that needs chopping out below the tail light, a repair, just panel beating, on the rear arch, the other rear arch has a small patch of bubbling on the leading edge and both front wings are starting to bubble on the leading edge too. They said they have to make new repair panels to give a guarantee on their work which I’m happy with. I’ve spoken to 4 shops now and none will guarantee anything coming back.

Wings are 800 plus VAT each and would still need the indicator holes welding up.

It will be back to bare metal, inside the door shuts, all seals and parts removed, bumpers, boot lid and bonnet off.

It’s a scary number but it’s the only body shop that has given me any confidence and the first one happy to let me poke around cars they have painted and shown how they do it.

First stone chip, I’ll be a broken man

Dave!

I've seen this car a few times over the years in magazines and I suspect it will be like new given the owner.

I really want it .

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-detail ... rchad=New

A fantastic car, plus the 1991 is the cream imo.

It reminds me of the RUF owners car.

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/ ... p-2006.pdf

Dave!

Family business and Ruf is actually his last name so its Mr. Ruf, technically - Alois.

Prices from OPC for the bits and pieces needing done look ok actually, apart from the front discs and pads which is nearly £800. Design 911 do a Boxster S front brake kit for £260 which includes pads, discs, pins etc. I’ve done this on a couple of Minis I had, so is it a no-brainier on a Boxster?

Yes, piece of piss.

Get a piston push back tool if you like, although a couple of suitable levers will do the job fine.

No different to any other car really, remove the little clip, push the spring slightly and tap the pin out. Pull out the pads, undo the bleed nipple, push back the pistons using a lever against the disk, unbolt the calliper from the hub, remove the disk.

Put it all together, press the pedal to seat the pads, top up the fluid, job done.

Just make sure you’ve got the right socket for the calliper bolts usually female torx On Brembo but sometimes spline.

Beetle and Civic both flew and sailed through their MOT's, which was a relief. Big service done on the Beetle at the same time. Can forget about those two for a while now. Still very fond of the Beetle; garage commented on what a good little car it is.

Thinking of taking the 650i off the road when its MOT is due at the end of October. I don't think it would pass anyway as the bushes and brakes need doing - they were advisories last year. On top of that though, I've only done 2000 miles in the last 12 months, and will do very little milage over Winter. So not sure it's worth taxing/insuring and dumping a fair bit of cash at the MOT to then do bugger all miles for the next 4/5 months. Feeling the pinch a bit since our total income has dropped.

Any tips for keeping it looked after over winter? I will keep it clean and keep its cover on. Will put the charger on as and when it needs it. Is it worth starting it up every couple of weeks and moving it around the drive, just to keep everything moving?