OV9

Mito with standard airbox and a dump valve spacer the hiss is barely audiable when driving with windows shut, but sounds quite good with them dropped a tad.



Disconnect the intake pipe from the airbox, like if you were sticking a cone filter on it



Usual disclaimer about it being a phone mic and not an entirely accurate reflection of in the flesh sound.

Matty wrote: Wed Apr 10, 2019 5:21 pm

Nic wrote: Wed Apr 10, 2019 12:05 pm Tractor is ace Ian

Lupo needs the block honed, new valve guides, new valve seats and valves lapped in iirc from the conversation, circa £370. Good news is that original block is useable, bad news is the costs mount up quickly.

£370 sounds quite reasonable?

I need a new daily hack, and your posts have me keeping an eye on LupoGTi's on eBay now. I'm not bothering to look at the forum, I suspect everyone on there thinks they're all worth £15,000.

£370 for just that work is ok, haven’t had a figure for removing engine, building engine back up with associated parts like belts, oil pump, head gasket set, new clutch yet etc. I guesstimating around £1000/12000 but it’ll probably be closer to £1500. If I keep it then I’ll know it’s right for a long time, if i sell then mechanically there won’t be any surprises for anyone in future.

Was thinking, the £370 wouldn't be considering the work to get there and to tie it all up after.

All depend on what you want from it. If you want it sound as a pound to thrash the crap out of it, then the work is worth it.

If the work gets annoyingly expensive, being able to say it's been properly rebuilt and has none of the common problems would make it a quick and easy sell at a good price.

Either way, even the (revised) estimated cost is probably less than half of what I spent on just MOTs and running repairs for the Puma while I had it, and I don't expect the Lupo will be full of fucking rust, so one would hope that this would be the biggest bill on this car for a good, long time.

Looking forward to seeing where you go with this Nic

£370 is very cheap, I guess that’s a hand held hone as when I had my Peugeot liners done a long time ago (wet liners so easy to remove) it was £40 each done on a homing machine. That was 19 years ago

I found the source of the noise on the Audi, the driveshaft bolt had become loose and then disappeared !!

There was a groan from the front, the BBS centre caps always made a slight noise so I removed them and went for a small drive. The noise was much less but it still wasn’t right. After about a mile the steering suddenly felt off and I decided to go home.

In the morning I went to prod and poke the front end, went to slide a jack under the jacking point and noticed the driveshaft bolt which secures the hub to the hub assembly was no longer there

The hub was replaced a couple of years ago at a garage, I did some reading and you can’t re-use the bolt so I am guessing it wound itself out or just wasn’t torqued up properly. It should be 190nm with the wheel in the air and then a quarter turn when on the ground.

So, £15 later, a new bolt from Audi and the noise is gone and the car back to normal. Which was a pleasant easy fix. Also, no wheel bearing noise as I was worried it would have taken some damage from the bolt being loose.

Dave!

As always it’s a chance you take, I bought the X5 as spares and repairs and it need a £42 filter and a jubilee clip and is now my daily run about. It’s a proper engineering place doing the hone Dave.

This is a shame, as hand-held hones on a cordless drill are one of the most awesome looking devices out there, like something that would live on the end of a Star Wars baddie's arm

Nic wrote: Thu Apr 11, 2019 8:43 am As always it’s a chance you take, I bought the X5 as spares and repairs and it need a £42 filter and a jubilee clip and is now my daily run about. It’s a proper engineering place doing the hone Dave.

We had a couple down here, Lindale eng8nes were good but pricey but now I don’t know of a single engine shop who does good work anymore. You seem to be in a good area. Will be good to read a review once finished.

Dave!

BMW S1000R Sport

New set of Metzler M7RR tyres going on later this afternoon. I just can't get on with the Bridgestone Battlax Hypersport S20s that are on it - feel like the front end is continually going to tuck under.

Should give me just enough time tomorrow and after I'm back from France after Easter to scrub them in before the British Superbike School track training day on the 25th.

£280 ride-in-ride-out seems pretty decent price.

tim wrote: Thu Apr 11, 2019 10:06 am BMW S1000R Sport

New set of Metzler M7RR tyres going on later this afternoon. I just can't get on with the Bridgestone Battlax Hypersport S20s that are on it - feel like the front end is continually going to tuck under.

Should give me just enough time tomorrow and after I'm back from France after Easter to scrub them in before the British Superbike School track training day on the 25th.

£280 ride-in-ride-out seems pretty decent price.

Sounds pricey to me. My Michelins are costing me £250, and that wasn't the cheapest way of doing it. I know Metzelers are more expensive than Michelins though, for some reason.

McSwede wrote: Tue Apr 09, 2019 12:42 pm

V8Granite wrote: Tue Apr 09, 2019 12:35 pm

McSwede wrote: Tue Apr 09, 2019 12:19 pm

The filter is a paper cylinder one that is accessed by unscrewing a cover and apparently the base of the paper filter gets stuck and breaks off meaning the only course of action is the remove and replace the whole filter housing assembly. The is also another inbuilt filter after the paper filter so stop anything getting through. the engine has not been started since they broke the paper filter.

That’s a really crap system, is this the same across a lot of BMWs ?

Mine is a cartridge type aswell and seals against a metal piece bonded to the element.

Dave!

I think quality of filters from factory have been a bit rubbish. It's happened on quite a few first services. See link for details.

https://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=108062

Mine was serviced prior to me picking it up so should have the better filter design in it now.

I stopped buying Bridgestone tyres for the bikes as they always felt hard and gave no feedback. Lasted ok but see previous comment.

I'll be getting M7RR for the Street next, probably stick with Road 5 on Tracer.

Civic MOT today. 98k miles.

Rear caliper slider un-seized.
Discs replaced (TRW?)
Pads replaced (TRW?)

Otherwise MOT passed.

Upsetting having to spend money on it but meh, could be worse bills at this age.

integrale_evo wrote: Wed Apr 10, 2019 5:46 pm Don't know whether it's for emissions or powahh or both, wonder if the compact cup cars still keep the lines attach or remove and block up.

From what I've read it's intended to improve fuel atomisation, but the handful of accounts of blanking it off all said the engine ran better afterwards ! So I'll probably do that.

330 started misfiring again last night. Happens under load when cold, which is unfortunate as to get home I join a d/c from a nearby roundabout, and you have to be "on it" as gaps are few and far between.

Anyway, pulled over, switched off and back on and it was fine again. However, 10mins later on a long 2-lane sliproad near the airport it did it again after I'd accelerated up to speed. So had to pull on to the hard shoulder at a really dodgy spot, to switch off an on again. Running fine again but the CEL is now one.

Going to check for codes tomorrow with my B-i-L's code reader and see what it says. A quick scour of the internet suggests it could be a multitude of different faults from coils/plugs, to DISA valves, to eccentric shaft sensor and so on. Time to start playing "hunt the problem"

4 new Shocks and Springs arrived for the Volvo, -35mm kit so should sit pretty much as it is now i reckon on 114000 mile old standard sport springs and shocks.

Parts For Volvo heavy duty front and rear ARB links, poly bushes for both ARBs, new inner track rods, new front lower ball joints, new front and rear top mounts and spring seats, new OEM lower arm bushes, new lower and upper engine mounts all arrived as well, oh and finally I have a new rear boot panel so no holes in it from the removed spoiler.

3rd gearbox oil change will be done whilst I have it in the air, new fuel, oil and pollen filters to change, clean and oil kit for the BSR air filter

Then front and rear bumpers to be resprayed, wheel refurb, machine polish and it will be good for another 114000 miles hopefully!

M140i is still in the dealers and still broken. It's parked outside with a big sign in the window saying "DO NOT START!!"

I've still got the 530e so it's no problem really but I'm looking forward to opening the taps when I get it back. Fingers crossed for Monday evening.

4 new Michelin PS4's fitted. One broken TPMS sensor (£90 ffs!!) and one chipped alloy

However, for some reason, the TPMS system now fails at 70mph-ish on the motorway. Come off the motorway, boom - all good. Back on the motorway, then (!) on the dash. Weird.

Edit - faster = warmer = higher pressure = warning as it's based on a pressure range which is being exceeded? Although all pressure readings switch to "--" symbols...

New top mounts set to max castor, make a bigger difference than I believed it would.

One of the biggest issues with a 20vt conversion in a mk1 is how close the down pipe sits to the steering knuckle, and even more so with a tubular manifold it appears.  Someone I follow on Instagram developed a solution for their mk1 by turning welding mat in to a blanket which should protect the rubber from melting.  



I’d booked a rolling road session for yesterday to find out what it was doing and to make sure everything was safe before giving it death this year and to find out why it would stall, turns out the stalling was a simple mistake, the maf should be behind the cone filter, not that far back.



On to the rollers then. When I had it mapped last year it was mapped in 22 degree heat so it was time to find out what it was putting out in normal-ish 12degree heat, discount the 327 as that was wheelspin on the rollers  



So yeah pretty mental, problem of course is that it’s way too close to bending the standard rods at that sort of power so we pulled the power back down to 270 again and tweaked the fuel trims at the top end so it now holds that power from 4000rpm to 6500rpm. Genuinely feels faster than it did last year.

Have you weighed it, Nic? Must be fucking mental.

Replaced a dipped beam bulb on the Galaxy. That in and of itself isn't interesting (although I'm sure it had you all riveted). However, it is the third bulb I've replaced on the O/S compared to one on the N/S. They've all been matched pairs bought at the same time.

I'll order a pair of something better than Halfords's whatevers.