I need to read the instructions for the remote for the plinth heater on the opposite side

It’s a nightmare, we have a tiny bit of movement, you don’t see it or feel it unless looking for it, 2 or 3mm right near th middle of the floor. That’s on a concrete base and room to move under the skirting.Rich B wrote: Fri Dec 21, 2018 9:24 pm We are close - just a load of annoying little bits... I like the new grey doors though, so that’s good!
The floor should come up a little darker, it’s still very dusty - there’s still some creaks but I can’t fucking sort them!
That's looking fantastic, well done.Rich B wrote: Fri Dec 21, 2018 9:24 pm We are close - just a load of annoying little bits... I like the new grey doors though, so that’s good!
The floor should come up a little darker, it’s still very dusty - there’s still some creaks but I can’t fucking sort them!
Don't get me started on that window. Stupid bloody thing - too big to properly support its weight on the hinges, and impossible to clean on the outside without a complicated folding tap arrangement. DG panel has failed in it anyway, so I strongly adviced to replace with a double, but the budget simply wouldn't stretch, so we've lived with it. Grrrr...mik wrote: Sat Dec 22, 2018 11:11 am Lovely big telly at the sink too. Unusual to get a 4:3 format screen these days mind.
im ok with scratches on this one - it’s such a rustic finish it doesn’t really effect it. It was “knee slide tested” extensively when my nephew came round the other day and my little chap is currently running round with an empty coffe can hitting everything! Oh look, now he’s using the sky remote....V8Granite wrote: Sat Dec 22, 2018 7:44 amThat Herringbone looks awesome. You WILL be a bit of a scratch nazi for 6 months or so, any toy with plastic wheels, chairs dragged instead of lifted etc will make you wince. After a year or so though when more scratches and marks are evident it starts to look much better with them.
Also to repair scratches, grab a walnut and rub it into the floor, it really works and is obviously pretty safe.
cheers matey!! - it’s coming together now!
I'd recommend one of these wiring centres instead of the Honeywell one, it’s got more space inside than the Honeywell one and has dedicated points for neutral and earth, just don’t try and use their wiring diagram as it’s baffling. Also don’t forget your links when you wire it up, everyone forgets to connect the valve neutrals and the greys to permanent liveSimon wrote: Mon Dec 31, 2018 7:01 pm Minor project is starting today. I've done some diagnosis and noticed that both the 2-way valves on my S-plan heating system are faulty. They close when they should, but the microswitch in each is sticky and sometimes still calling for heat. End result is that both my bypass loop and also the bathroom circuit are acting as a shock absorber for all that heat.
So, I've ordered up 2 new Honeywell valves to replace them completely (they're currently a Danfoss and a Drayton). I've also just got the proper Honeywell 10-way junction box to rewire the lot, which is currently terminated behind a wall plate with loads of individual terminal blocks.
The job to replace all my old TRVs and lockshields with new Honeywell 10mm TRVs continues. By the time every one in the house is done, the new evohome will likely be available, so I'll pick that up later in 2019 and fit it. I'll just need a new boiler then, but I'm hoping mine will last until the extension, at which point it'll be moved from its current location to inside a kitchen cupboard.
Oooh, good advice, ta!jamcg wrote: Mon Dec 31, 2018 7:23 pmI'd recommend one of these wiring centres instead of the Honeywell one, it’s got more space inside than the Honeywell one and has dedicated points for neutral and earth, just don’t try and use their wiring diagram as it’s baffling. Also don’t forget your links when you wire it up, everyone forgets to connect the valve neutrals and the greys to permanent liveSimon wrote: Mon Dec 31, 2018 7:01 pm Minor project is starting today. I've done some diagnosis and noticed that both the 2-way valves on my S-plan heating system are faulty. They close when they should, but the microswitch in each is sticky and sometimes still calling for heat. End result is that both my bypass loop and also the bathroom circuit are acting as a shock absorber for all that heat.
So, I've ordered up 2 new Honeywell valves to replace them completely (they're currently a Danfoss and a Drayton). I've also just got the proper Honeywell 10-way junction box to rewire the lot, which is currently terminated behind a wall plate with loads of individual terminal blocks.
The job to replace all my old TRVs and lockshields with new Honeywell 10mm TRVs continues. By the time every one in the house is done, the new evohome will likely be available, so I'll pick that up later in 2019 and fit it. I'll just need a new boiler then, but I'm hoping mine will last until the extension, at which point it'll be moved from its current location to inside a kitchen cupboard.
https://www.toolstation.com/salus-tc100 ... tre/p82276