OV9

A couple of minor tweaks on the ‘sud.

Decided to remove the rear bumper and look at removing the plastic cladding, similar to what I did at the front. I’d been a little reluctant as it had clearly had a knock which had flattened the metal bumper behind the plastic.

With it removed I was able to bash it out to a point I was happy with the results and you’d have to look hard to see anything wrong with it. Added a rubber trim to the centre. I much prefer it, a nice simple classic look.



At the front I purposely didn’t drill any holes to fit the top mounted indicators, I just trim taped them in place, and never really liked how they look.

So I made some little brackets to hang them under the bumper, I had to drill one small hole on the underside of the bumper each side. Would still prefer flush mounted ones but think it looks much better now than before.

Those definitely look better on the underside.

My reversing sensors have decided to stop working, but I suspect it's related to the quick jetwash I gave it the other night.

It's consistently drizzling at the moment, so I'll wait for a dry day and go hook up the code reader and see if it reveals any mysteries.

Might just be an ultrasonic unit needing a wipe 'n' tap.

integrale_evo wrote: Tue May 27, 2025 10:14 pm

what on earth were they thinking mounting them on top of- under looks about 4 million times better.

There’s a part of me that says you shouldn’t be modifying your classic like this, but a bigger part of me says it’s your car, you should do whatever you want with it - and it looks cool!

Everything I’ve done so far is completely reversible, even the radio I put in was a spindle mount one so I didn’t have to trim the centre console and can put the factory blank back if I ever remove it. The lights connect to the factory plugs, the extra hole I drilled would be completely hidden with the plastics attached back onto the bumpers.

But yeah, I spent 4 years with it completely standard and took it to plenty of meets and events, so felt it time to make a few subtle adjustments and make it more my own.

Unless side by side it’s only rivet counters who would notice the difference anyway, it looks good

Dave!

Rich B wrote: Tue May 27, 2025 10:36 pm
what on earth were they thinking mounting them on top of- under looks about 4 million times better.

It's going to be type approval. Minimum height for indicators is 350mm for modern cars.

Looks remarkably solid it must have had a loved early life.

integrale_evo wrote: Tue May 27, 2025 11:01 pm But yeah, I spent 4 years with it completely standard and took it to plenty of meets and events, so felt it time to make a few subtle adjustments and make it more my own.

Indicators look massively better where you have put them. Another positive mod

Carlos wrote: Wed May 28, 2025 11:10 am

Rich B wrote: Tue May 27, 2025 10:36 pm
what on earth were they thinking mounting them on top of- under looks about 4 million times better.

It's going to be type approval. Minimum height for indicators is 350mm for modern cars.

Looks remarkably solid it must have had a loved early life.

It probably was some sort of regulation along with cost cutting I guess.

Still seems off they didn’t flush mount them yet they did on the sprint coupe version. If it was a model specific thing it seems odd as the headlights indicators and body add ons were all specially made for the Ti models, plus an extra process to drill the bumper for the top mount indicators.

There were odd regulations which is why most Italian cars of the 60s / 70s have a side repeater on the front corner of the wings. Some countries didn’t require any until the 80s, then the position seemed to be standardised to behind the front wheel.

Even under the bumper they’re much higher than on something like an original mini.

Anyone recommend a good bolt extractor or something I can use below?

It’s a snapped off fuel line on a fuel filter housing. I tried the reverse thread extractor I’m holding beside it but no bueno.

Maurice wrote: Thu May 22, 2025 9:26 pm Hullo everyone, me again…

GT4 RS



In short, I absolutely love it and I’m glad I took the plunge.

Looks amazing. Congrats

Mito Man wrote: Wed May 28, 2025 8:18 pm Anyone recommend a good bolt extractor or something I can use below?

It’s a snapped off fuel line on a fuel filter housing. I tried the reverse thread extractor I’m holding beside it but no bueno.

I'd clean it up, drop a steel bar into the hole then tack weld it onto the edge of what remains. Then just turn that to get it out.

Looks like a job for one of those reverse - scroll extractor bits? Sometimes they can spread the problem part and make it stick more, but it looks like there is a decent thickness on your problem part (that sounds wrong doesn’t it?)

That's the problem I had, feels like it spread the broken part even more. I've ordered another from Japan but it will take 10 or so days to arrive. Realised that even if I could remove the broken part I couldn't find a replacement right angle elbow thing-a-ma-jig.

Cut a slot across the end and use a big fat screwdriver. Preferably one with a hex shank you can get a spanner on.

Or weld a bolt in it.

Or drill it thin enough it falls to bits

I only have a stick welder so I'm not going to try aluminium
It's fine, I'll just remove the non broken fitting the other side and I've now got a spare.

Edit - I’ll put a picture of my temporary repair up next time I fit the new part. It’s so genius I frightened myself

EOTR: Land Rover Defender.

Advertised it at £28,750 in the end (anything similar above that isn't selling). Didn't get any private enquiries other than scammers, and one trade enquiry, so sold it to the trader for £25k this morning - a nice easy sale when I'm 100 miles away from the car.

Bought in 2017 for £21.5k with 27,000 miles (sold with 37,000 miles)
£800 wheels and tyres
£400 remap
£700 stereo and parking sensors
£700 suspension upgrade
c. £2000 servicing

- Probably the cheapest car I'll ever own!



When I bought it I didn't think I'd ever sell it, but my use for it has diminished to zero and it will just end up deteriorating and losing value.
I want to get my Series IIa V8 back on the road now and finish putting seats in the back for the kids. It needed a new brake servo, which has taken nearly a year to sort because it's basically a chopped chassis 1970 Range Rover underneath and the lockheed parts required to rebuild it have been a challenge to get hold of.

Inspection done.

Other than a mild misting from one shock (sadly, not enough to justify a set of Bilsteins), mild lips on the rear disks, and brake fluid that wants changing, it seems the car is as clean and sound as stated.

I'm, er, a bit shocked.

I got it inspected because I didn't want to do more 200 mile trips without verifying the car was alright, and the recommendation is to just drive it more, because they reckon it's not been driven much the last couple of years.

Can do!

Seventy quid well spent.

Jimexpl wrote: Fri May 30, 2025 11:43 am Bought in 2017 for £21.5k with 27,000 miles (sold with 10,000 miles)

10,000 more miles I assume, rather than clocked I know that's over 8 years but when you have two other Land Rovers that's not a bad amount of usage.

Beany wrote: Fri May 30, 2025 11:55 am
Other than a mild misting from one shock (sadly, not enough to justify a set of Bilsteins), mild lips on the rear disks, and brake fluid that wants changing, it seems the car is as clean and sound as stated.

Bilstein UK do rebuilds. @scotta had his (fancy) elise set done - looked brand new and very good value.

I have a pair of new rears for the Evora, but I'm planning to just get my fronts refurbed when it's time - only real issue is that they need 2 weeks (as of last time I enquired) to turn them around - which you obvs have to plan for.

mik wrote: Fri May 30, 2025 12:28 pm

Beany wrote: Fri May 30, 2025 11:55 am
Other than a mild misting from one shock (sadly, not enough to justify a set of Bilsteins), mild lips on the rear disks, and brake fluid that wants changing, it seems the car is as clean and sound as stated.

Bilstein UK do rebuilds. @scotta had his (fancy) elise set done - looked brand new and very good value.

I have a pair of new rears for the Evora, but I'm planning to just get my fronts refurbed when it's time - only real issue is that they need 2 weeks (as of last time I enquired) to turn them around - which you obvs have to plan for.

I have an email address for the Bilstein man i can supply if you want.