OV9

There are obviously lots of variables, but several of my rwd cars would literally not move in snow, they’d just sit there at idle in gear and spin the wheels all day on the slightest incline. I’m not really sure how driving technique would generate enough grip to be able to drive safely.

On the other hand my silver compact on slim all seasons literally ploughed its way through deep snow along single track country lanes a few years ago which many people thought were impassable. That alone was enough to convince me that winter / all season tyres are worth it for me.

I work shifts, so i’m often some of the first traffic to drive along many of the roads I use, and I do not have the option to arrive late, work from home etc, if I don’t clock in on time I lose money, if I miss a day I lose an attendance bonus. I choose to use seasonal tyres to give myself the best chance of arriving safely, and avoiding anyone else on the road should we get a spell of particularly nasty weather. Not saying it’s the only way, but it works for me.

I used to have a set of winter tyres on the Mito, it was like a little mountain goat, went anywhere. The only limit was grounding it out from the lowish ride height. Haven't bothered fitting them since I have the Defender which is on a set of M+S tyres anyway.

My E46 330i required a push to get out of Waitrose car park back in December 2010 due to snow falling while I was shopping. Also wouldn’t pull out of my flat road a few days later; I got out and realised it was still in gear with the wheels turning but wasn’t moving at all.

Anything on wide summer tyres is going to struggle, and not feel nice on compacted snow as it moves around.

Beany wrote: ↑Fri Dec 16, 2022 11:27 pm I ran full winters on the Puma for a couple of years, and other than lacking grip at the ragged edges when they were hot and pushing fairly hard, they were fine for 95% of summer driving. They rode better too

Same. Unless something bad happens I’m leaving these winters on the MINI indefinitely.

Sundayjumper wrote: ↑Fri Dec 16, 2022 5:29 pm I think Harry means you should run winters all year and sell the current set

Four hours return - which direction ? Just in case I need to accidentally buy something too.....

. Sittingbourne, Kent

JonMad wrote: ↑Sat Dec 17, 2022 10:48 am

Sundayjumper wrote: ↑Fri Dec 16, 2022 5:29 pm I think Harry means you should run winters all year and sell the current set

Four hours return - which direction ? Just in case I need to accidentally buy something too.....

. Sittingbourne, Kent

Pop in for a cuppa on the way?

Dragged myself out to start the transfer box swap.

I’d read I’d need to remove the exhaust, but the fixings looked crusty and it looked like there would be enough room to squeeze the gearbox mounting bracket out with it left on.

I was wrong, it just won’t quite squeeze out. Only needs 10mm or so.

Start on the downpipe connections, I guess they were originally 13mm, a 12 slipped, an 11 hammered on got two out. Then a female t16 got another, but the last one is being a bitch. It’s probably the easiest one to get at and can probably just dremel it off. Rest of the job doesn’t seem too bad.

Noticed on the replacement there’s some preload on the system, so the front diff being sized will definitely have overheated and killed the clutches.

I’d assumed they were rwd until they detected slip, but apparently not, it’s supposed to be a 60/40 split in normal driving. I’m still not totally sure how it works, bmw say it can send 100% of the torque to either end, but I can’t see how as it looks like the output to the rear is a through shaft with the clutched drive to the front coming off it.

integrale_evo wrote: ↑Sat Dec 17, 2022 12:08 am There are obviously lots of variables, but several of my rwd cars would literally not move in snow, they’d just sit there at idle in gear and spin the wheels all day on the slightest incline. I’m not really sure how driving technique would generate enough grip to be able to drive safely.

On the other hand my silver compact on slim all seasons literally ploughed its way through deep snow along single track country lanes a few years ago which many people thought were impassable. That alone was enough to convince me that winter / all season tyres are worth it for me.

I work shifts, so i’m often some of the first traffic to drive along many of the roads I use, and I do not have the option to arrive late, work from home etc, if I don’t clock in on time I lose money, if I miss a day I lose an attendance bonus. I choose to use seasonal tyres to give myself the best chance of arriving safely, and avoiding anyone else on the road should we get a spell of particularly nasty weather. Not saying it’s the only way, but it works for me.

Yeah I wasn't saying they're pointless by any means. Just a counter to the reference to winters being fine 95% of the time really. I'd say summers are probably fine 99% of the time in this country. Good tread depth makes the biggest difference ime

No heating at all in the TT, it’s always been weak due to what I believe is a flap motor, they have a blending door with a dense foam cover and I think the foam has disintegrated. This involves the dash coming out, which I absolutely hate so won’t do .

I shall try a heater core flush but I’m 99% sure it’s not that, it’s wishful thinking really.

Dave!

Swervin_Mervin wrote: ↑Sun Dec 18, 2022 12:09 am Yeah I wasn't saying they're pointless by any means. Just a counter to the reference to winters being fine 95% of the time really. I'd say summers are probably fine 99% of the time in this country. Good tread depth makes the biggest difference ime

I’d say winters are fine 100% of the time on road. Whereas when summers aren’t fine, you sometimes can’t even move.

JonMad wrote: ↑Sat Dec 17, 2022 10:48 am

Sundayjumper wrote: ↑Fri Dec 16, 2022 5:29 pm I think Harry means you should run winters all year and sell the current set

Four hours return - which direction ? Just in case I need to accidentally buy something too.....

. Sittingbourne, Kent

Good luck, and beware the traffic; https://www.google.com/maps/@51.3375106 ... a=!5m1!1e1

Alfa hasn't moved in about 6 weeks. I've not been able to garage it due to housework, so I'm fully expecting the brakes to be glued on, or the TCM to be borked or something similarly Alfa-like. If there's one thing I learnt about Alfa ownership, it's that leaving them sitting around = bad.

Also discovered that having a good 100kg in the boot significantly improves the Up's composure. The MPG took a good 10% hit, but it felt far less bouncy and more settled over rough roads. Tempted to keep some UPS's in the boot permanently.

The Mustang needs its wheels smartened up, big time. Three of them can be refurbished but one of them can't and needs replacing.

Only problem is, I can't find the feckin thing in the right size anywhere. I think it's an American Racing Torq Thrust wheel, but in a rather unusual size - 20x10 ET45. Really annoying as the 17/18 inch, and even 19 inch are readily available and cheap

Matty wrote: ↑Sun Dec 18, 2022 2:11 pm Alfa hasn't moved in about 6 weeks. I've not been able to garage it due to housework, so I'm fully expecting the brakes to be glued on, or the TCM to be borked or something similarly Alfa-like. If there's one thing I learnt about Alfa ownership, it's that leaving them sitting around = bad.

Also discovered that having a good 100kg in the boot significantly improves the Up's composure. The MPG took a good 10% hit, but it felt far less bouncy and more settled over rough roads. Tempted to keep some UPS's in the boot permanently.

What’s the reasoning behind not driving it ? Surely a 20 minute drive every few weeks isn’t that much work ?

Dave!

V8Granite wrote: ↑Sun Dec 18, 2022 4:01 pm

Matty wrote: ↑Sun Dec 18, 2022 2:11 pm Alfa hasn't moved in about 6 weeks. I've not been able to garage it due to housework,

What’s the reasoning behind not driving it ?

He’s already told you. Hoovering, dusting, cleaning out the toilets. All takes time Dave!

Finally got the last bit of and enough clearance to get the support bracket and then transfer case itself off.

On balance, I’d take the crisp cold of last weekend over the thawing frost dripping everywhere followed by rain

Finally got it off, but it’s dark and wet and I can’t be bothered any more. Pretty confident that bolting the replacement on will be a lot quicker and easier

Now it's out, is there anything obviously different between the old & new transfer boxes ?

And I'm still waiting for pics of the inside of the destroyed front diff

Not had a chance to have a proper look, too cold and dark.

I need to see if anyone can rebuild them, if it’s not daft money then I’ll probably get it done as a long term fix as they will wear over time.

Diff will definitely be getting pulled to bits because it’s scrap. Transfer case maybe if a rebuild is silly money, just so I can have a look and try and understand how it works.

Feels like you're in the 'busting your balls so I don't have to admit it was a sh1t purchase' stage.

It's an X5, they're always broken