OV9

Battery condition may be a factor as well.

Took the MX5 out last night as it hadn't moved in about 3 weeks. Ended up at Morrisons to get some dog food and had a good blast around the deserted car park. I'd forgotten what a weapon it is in snowy/icey/slushy conditions. Skinny 185 snow tyres are awesome!!! It's at it's very best in these conditions. What a laugh.

integrale_evo wrote: Sun Jan 17, 2021 1:53 am Yeah, just use the key in the door like in the Stone Age

In all seriousness, it never crossed my mind - I'll have to give that a look. I was half a bottle of wine down last night when I got the knock at the door, so I just unlocked the fucking thing and went back inside

Apparently one of the issues that are worth investigating is that the hall effect sensor can just come loose from it's mounting position, and can be soldered back in place with a bit of hacking the module apart to gain access to it. If nothing else works, I'll try that before dropping the circa £150-200 for a module, because if it's fucked, it's not like I can fuck it any further, right?

Just gone out to the car, battery low. And of course someone just parked up behind me so I can't even reverse bump it. Bugger.

Bumped it eventually, have run out enough where it's starting off its own juice, but yes, perhaps a top up charge would be a good first step

I'd be tempted to stick a new battery on as you can guarantee it'll be flat again when you least need it.

Looks like £40-£60 for your car from tayna.co.uk

Mito needs a MOT, not sure I’m bothered enough to book one right now. Shame they’re not extending them again this time eh. The radiator on it is leaking which is annoying.


Ordered a microfilter for the 6 series. I was going to do the spark plugs on it myself too then saw a video for the final 2 which are under the dash and though fuck that
I reckon the bearing on the idler pulley is about to completely fail too.
I do need need to remove the undertray to investigate an oil leak and replace a rear parking sensor when I can be bothered.

The Defender was so dirty that I couldn’t actually see out the side windows when reversing today so I started just washing the windows and then did the whole thing as it was nice and sunny. The arches on it were getting a bit beat up driving it through the woods so I gave them a very quick once over to blend it in with the general crap paint condition on the rest of the car but they still came out too good



My mechanic keeps saying it would look amazing all polished up but it would be a bit of a waste of time considering I use the thing like a giant atv - the metallic in it is pretty nice looking though


So 1 out of 3 working as usual! Off to look at some car leases...

Typical one step forward two steps back.

I’d noticed a leak in the exhaust, a clamp bolt had rusted right through and dropped out and the joint was blowing. Easy job so I got under there to clean it up & re-seal it, and did the one on the other side too as although it wasn’t leaking yet it was pretty crusty and bound to fail at some point.

While there I noticed the prop centre bearing support has split - another standard job on these - and a screw in the nsf tyre. The list of jobs is getting longer...

All Defenders need plain plastic arches!!!!

I see your MT tyres have Pre-drilled snow stud holes

Dave!

Beany wrote: Sun Jan 17, 2021 12:56 pm

integrale_evo wrote: Sun Jan 17, 2021 1:53 am Yeah, just use the key in the door like in the Stone Age

In all seriousness, it never crossed my mind - I'll have to give that a look. I was half a bottle of wine down last night when I got the knock at the door, so I just unlocked the fucking thing and went back inside

Apparently one of the issues that are worth investigating is that the hall effect sensor can just come loose from it's mounting position, and can be soldered back in place with a bit of hacking the module apart to gain access to it. If nothing else works, I'll try that before dropping the circa £150-200 for a module, because if it's fucked, it's not like I can fuck it any further, right?

Just gone out to the car, battery low. And of course someone just parked up behind me so I can't even reverse bump it. Bugger.

Bumped it eventually, have run out enough where it's starting off its own juice, but yes, perhaps a top up charge would be a good first step

Probably the low battery which made the alarm freak out if it sensed a voltage drop.

V8Granite wrote: Sun Jan 17, 2021 7:41 pm All Defenders need plain plastic arches!!!!

I see your MT tyres have Pre-drilled snow stud holes

Dave!

I feel like they would annoy me even more as they fade! I’ve replaced all the exterior plastic bar the door handles for that reason.

integrale_evo wrote: Sun Jan 17, 2021 7:41 pm

Beany wrote: Sun Jan 17, 2021 12:56 pm

integrale_evo wrote: Sun Jan 17, 2021 1:53 am Yeah, just use the key in the door like in the Stone Age

In all seriousness, it never crossed my mind - I'll have to give that a look. I was half a bottle of wine down last night when I got the knock at the door, so I just unlocked the fucking thing and went back inside

Apparently one of the issues that are worth investigating is that the hall effect sensor can just come loose from it's mounting position, and can be soldered back in place with a bit of hacking the module apart to gain access to it. If nothing else works, I'll try that before dropping the circa £150-200 for a module, because if it's fucked, it's not like I can fuck it any further, right?

Just gone out to the car, battery low. And of course someone just parked up behind me so I can't even reverse bump it. Bugger.

Bumped it eventually, have run out enough where it's starting off its own juice, but yes, perhaps a top up charge would be a good first step

Probably the low battery which made the alarm freak out if it sensed a voltage drop.

I do enjoy how Beany’s problem solving process goes from the most complex jobs to then the simplest

I dunno, it stops playing up for a while if you give it a good slam, but I suppose low voltage could cock up the signal from the hall effect sensor. I'll stick it on charge tomorrow night and see if it makes it go away (for a while, presumably, till I get a new battery).

I should really suspect the battery first as it's a wee bit shaky anyway.

Mito, I pay for my own repairs so I actually worry about them, Daddy doesn't just drop the Gold Card when something goes tits up

Charging a battery is hardly the most expensive starting point to diagnose a fault?

Boot lights failed on the Evora - that’s about the 8th time now.

The rear screen elements drop at the same time, but since the engine does rather a spiffing job of keeping that clear - you never know.

Thanks to the Loltus forum - first time it happened I didn’t start pulling everything apart. It’s a common problem and easily corrected. There is a spade connector under a padded panel on the rear hatch that works loose. Unfortunately it does the same thing repeatedly over time. I’ve tried various different tapes to try and encourage it to stay seated, but nothing works.

So I decided tonight to stick a bit of wood behind it for support and drill a small (2.2mm thanks for asking) hole in the spade so I could stick a tiny cable tie on. Then decided to wrap a slice of gaffa tape round to prevent that from working its way off.

Hopefully by applying some bodgetastic thinking, this is the last time I will need to do this wee job!

Maybe it's the kids doing the tagging that disconnect it?

Mito Man wrote: Sun Jan 17, 2021 7:54 pm Charging a battery is hardly the most expensive starting point to diagnose a fault?

I'm pretty confident it won't fix it due to the behaviour, hence checking out what else can cause it other than vdroop, none of which are particularly cheap options.

Water causing the bonnet switch to ground out is another common e46 issue.

Rich B wrote: Sun Jan 17, 2021 8:17 pm Maybe it's the kids doing the tagging that disconnect it?

That was Banksy Rich

integrale_evo wrote: Sun Jan 17, 2021 8:28 pm Water causing the bonnet switch to ground out is another common e46 issue.

Yeah, familiar with that, but it's absolutely the drivers side door that's at fault here.

(I did give the bonnet position switch a good few presses for luck though, arf)

Had my first proper poke round the XF today whilst giving it a decent clean.

The interior really is as new, the leather once cleaned and conditioned is all soft and matt. Really came up lovely after a few hours of graft.

Couple of bits I want sorting externally, there's a few stonechips on the front bumper and bonnet if you look for them, they're more noticeable on a black car.

Its generally in very good condition all round.

The stereo is superb, spent a while just listening to songs in it whilst cleaning the interior and the quality really is great. Also found out a 1200w stereo doesn't take long to ensure I got a 'Shut Down in 3 Minutes - Battery Low' message.

Fit LED bulbs in the puddle lights under the mirrors, in the number plate lights and in the footwells, not sure why they weren't LEDs as standard really.

Also put my private plate on it, need new number plates really, but re used the ones I took off my Volvo until lockdown lifts.

Went to take my parents some shopping and went the long way round, in Dynamic mode with the dampers firmed up, it handles superbly for a big car, corners flatter than the S60 did even when lowered, rides much better as well.

Jaguar really do know how to set the balance between ride and handling.

Could really do with an LSD though, I've looked about but no one seems to have fit one before. Will have a look at the CCF and see if a XFR one can be fitted if you change the configuration file.

Used a CTEK for the first time on Sat. Had it on charge for probably 8-9hrs - it was at 4 lights. Car started fine today for a tip run. Cracking.