OV9

Jezh wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 2:11 pm

Zonda_ wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 12:24 pm My M135i needed a new steering rack and column too.

Did you get any explanation as to what went wrong with it?

No but they replaced it very quickly with no questions asked, I thought warranty claims were usually harder than that as I can't imagine it was cheap. The steering had gone very heavy, like it was running in Sport mode all the time.

Just washed the X5 for the first time since I waxed it a few weeks ago. It actually surprised me how much quicker it was to clean, and I’m really pleased with the carbon black finish again.

Zonda_ wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 2:51 pm

Jezh wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 2:11 pm

Zonda_ wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 12:24 pm My M135i needed a new steering rack and column too.

Did you get any explanation as to what went wrong with it?

No but they replaced it very quickly with no questions asked, I thought warranty claims were usually harder than that as I can't imagine it was cheap. The steering had gone very heavy, like it was running in Sport mode all the time.

I had the same thing sort of. When starting out after being stationary for a few hours it would be very 'lumpy' going from heavy to light then heavy again. As it warmed up it felt like the front wheels were doing there own thing i.e. steering input didn't immediately transmit to direction change. It was in reality a very small delay but very noticeable. Like you they didn't hang about changing it once they got it in.

Jezh wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 3:20 pm

Zonda_ wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 2:51 pm

Jezh wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 2:11 pm

Did you get any explanation as to what went wrong with it?

No but they replaced it very quickly with no questions asked, I thought warranty claims were usually harder than that as I can't imagine it was cheap. The steering had gone very heavy, like it was running in Sport mode all the time.

I had the same thing sort of. When starting out after being stationary for a few hours it would be very 'lumpy' going from heavy to light then heavy again. As it warmed up it felt like the front wheels were doing there own thing i.e. steering input didn't immediately transmit to direction change. It was in reality a very small delay but very noticeable. Like you they didn't hang about changing it once they got it in.

Mine was booked in for something else entirely and the steering rack failed very quickly so I told them the car had a more serious issue and they started work that afternoon. Be interesting to know how many others have failed.

scotta wrote: Fri Jul 13, 2018 9:59 am Correct pads arrived from Elise-Shop so will get them fitted tomorrow.

Weekend jobs on the Lotus in that case

• Cleanup Disks

• Fit new Pads both front and rear.

• Clean and re-oil the air filter.

• change the engine oil and filter.

• re-lube the damper stems.

So i did all that on Saturday (6 fooking hours). Was sweating like fook as it was roasting in the garage. Specialist warned me the CL pads dont like pickup so took all the disks off and gave them a clean up with Emrey cloths and brake cleaner and just to be sure blasted them all with the pressure washer. Brakes all back together and took it out for a run....All was not right...Brakes would bite initially then the preasure would drop and the pedal sink to the floor. hmm. Checked all the callipers and the reservoir for leaks. Nothing. Spoke to the wookie and he suggested pressure bleeding some fluid through as he's had that before when pushing pistons back that the master cylinder valve can get stuck open. However he has my pressure bleeder..Tried a good few hard and fast pumps pf the pedal and something seemed to work as the pedal pressure came back and it seems fine now.

Took the car for a good run last night to bed the brakes in properly and test the new CL pads - Which are epic! Bites hard and hauls it up sharpish. Cant wait to try them on track.

I didnt however have any brake buffers and the CL pads are quite a loose fit. As a result they are knocking like bastard in the callipers. Ordered some that should arrive tomorrow.

Top tip - crack open the bleed nipple on the caliper before pushing the pistons in.

It makes it easier, less likely to cause issues at the pedal end, purges out old heat cycled fluid from the caliper side.

When they're all the way in, tighten the nipple. When you're all done pump the pedal to settle the pistons and pads, then top up the fluid in the reservoir.

integrale_evo wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 9:26 pm Top tip - crack open the bleed nipple on the caliper before pushing the pistons in.

It makes it easier, less likely to cause issues at the pedal end, purges out old heat cycled fluid from the caliper side.

When they're all the way in, tighten the nipple. When you're all done pump the pedal to settle the pistons and pads, then top up the fluid in the reservoir.

Reasonable shout for next time.

One of those thing you wonder why you never did before when you try it for the first time

I have a fear of calliper bleed nipples as on my first few cars they looked like those underwater images of the titanic - and always took AGES to get them moving

mik wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 9:44 pm I have a fear of calliper bleed nipples as on my first few cars they looked like those underwater images of the titanic - and always took AGES to get them moving

Mines on the Loltus are well used so not a problem. Fluid has been changed 4 times in the 2 years I've had it.

mik wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 9:44 pm I have a fear of calliper bleed nipples as on my first few cars they looked like those underwater images of the titanic - and always took AGES to get them moving

I can the previous owners had loosened them when filling new brake pads they might not have been so crusty

A dear old friend, who's sadly no longer with us, once borrowed one of my G-clamps so that he could change his own pads. The clamp was to push the piston back into the calliper. In the end he tried turning it so hard that the G-clamp bent and distorted. Turns out he didn't realise on rear calipers you have to wind it back in because of the handbrake mechanism. Muppet.

@ Harry - yes I ndeedy

I have front discs n pads for the Evora in the garage - didn’t fit them as they finally stopped juddering after about 20 miles of death oop north (normal bedding in routines improved them, but judder was still there).

Will try your technique when I change these over.

mik wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 10:22 pm @ Harry - yes I ndeedy

I have front discs n pads for the Evora in the garage - didn’t fit them as they finally stopped juddering after about 20 miles of death oop north (normal bedding in routines improved them, but judder was still there).

Will try your technique when I change these over.

Sounds like a good excuse to properly kill the existing ones off on a a track day...

Got my elise back from its extended break in harrogate having trick suspension components made....



Also had my gearkit delivered



Immediately sent it back as it had been badly damaged in transit.

Should probably resurrect the build thread I guess.

Is that the only packaging it had, a couple of layers of cardboard?

Zonda_ wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 3:41 pm

Jezh wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 3:20 pm

Zonda_ wrote: Mon Jul 16, 2018 2:51 pm

No but they replaced it very quickly with no questions asked, I thought warranty claims were usually harder than that as I can't imagine it was cheap. The steering had gone very heavy, like it was running in Sport mode all the time.

I had the same thing sort of. When starting out after being stationary for a few hours it would be very 'lumpy' going from heavy to light then heavy again. As it warmed up it felt like the front wheels were doing there own thing i.e. steering input didn't immediately transmit to direction change. It was in reality a very small delay but very noticeable. Like you they didn't hang about changing it once they got it in.

Mine was booked in for something else entirely and the steering rack failed very quickly so I told them the car had a more serious issue and they started work that afternoon. Be interesting to know how many others have failed.

Lots

Variable rack issues across the range. Our 125i went in for a service a couple of years ago and they flagged it to us and said it would be done under 100% goodwill from BMW. Surprised me at the time!

Did some reading and istr they were on something like the 13th iteration of the rack design

John wrote: Tue Jul 17, 2018 2:24 pm Is that the only packaging it had, a couple of layers of cardboard?

Both clusters were in a single layer of cardboard, as was the crownwheel. They went to the effort of making a wooden box to put it all in, but just dropped it all in there to rattle around in transit.







They didn't quibble though, just said 'yep that was shit, we'll replace it'.

Subaru didn't like the hot weather last week and being pushed a bit on the motorway. Temp gauge started to climb, could be a sticky thermostat as reports of this are quite common. I've monitored it with Torque and it sit's at around 88 degrees which I'm told it totally normal. I started looking at lower operating temp thermostats to be horrified that they cost £50, WTAF £50 for a thermostat! Anyway it's a case of needs must so i'll just order one when I get back from holiday.
In other news my mower is now ready for the 12hr endurance race having been totally rebuilt with 90% new parts. I'm running 2 teams this year with a boys team (mine and my mates boys who are just 16 now and another guy i recruited yesterday) and the usual senior team. The boys are running our reliable but somewhat heavy wheelhorse as i'd like them to spend time racing it and not fixing it. Hopefully it will see them to the best newcomer trophy. We are running my machine which is faster but needs a bit more mechanical sympathy, we should be able to bring it home in the top 5 if we can keep it going with the prime engine.

Carl.

dan wrote: Tue Jul 17, 2018 12:17 pm

Nobody gonna ask how did the car get up there?

I know your car is light Dan, so light it floats